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Making and Replacing a Motor Shaft
This shaft was being used with a collet type folding prop yoke/spinner when a nose strike on a rock bent the shaft. It is a 3mm shaft and the motor was a Turborix D2830-800 brushless outrunner.
The bent shaft has been removed from the motor in the first photo. To do that I used a jewlers screwdriver to pry the circlip away from the shaft at the back of the motor. Do that carefully so you don't lose it, some like to do it in a plastic bag but I couldn't find my plastic bag.
Look carefully to see if there is a thrust bearing under the circlip. If so, remove that too or at least keep track of it..
The shaft and magnet housing slid forward and out of the bearings and the motor came apart easily in this case. I put my fingernails in the gap between the magnet housing and the motor base/stator housing and pulled hard enough to defeat the magnets and the shaft and housing just slid right out of the bearings.
There were two small metric socket head Allen head grub screws holding the shaft in the magnet housing, I loosened the grub screws and the shaft slid out. In some cases a few gentle taps with a soft hammer may be needed to get the shaft out of the housing.
In the first photo is the bent shaft and a 3mm shaft removed from a CD-ROM drive.
The circlip groove near the end was the only one being used, the other circlip groove is not needed and will not be duplicated. The second circlip groove is the one that would allow that shaft to be mounted for a "firewall mount" with shaft extending out from the back of the fixed part of the motor.
So we will cut it to length, duplicate the circlip groove near the end, and cut the grub screw flat. I have already marked the cutting point for the length, I will use the longer part on the right for the new shaft.
The tools needed are:
- 3/8" or 1/4" drill motor
- Dremel tool with #409 abrasive cutting disc and #402 arbor (any other Dremel abrasive cutting disc like the fibreglas ones will be too thick and will not work)
- Safety glasses or other eye protection.
My cutting setup is seen in the second photo. I use a 3/8" VSR drill motor and have the shaft chucked up with the point of the cut a short distance from the chuck. That drill will lay flat on it's side as seen there, I lay the Dremel tool with a #409 abrasive cutting disc mounted flat on the bench top and the two shafts are parallel to each other and you can hold the drill motor and Dremel tool down solidly as the cut is made.
The third photo shows how the cut will be made by bringing the abrasive disc into contact with the shaft. I have arranged the rotation of the drill motor and the cutter so that the shaft and abrasive disc are rotating in opposite directions at the point of cut. As seen there, from the right, the drill motor and Dremel tool are both turning clockwise so the shaft is coming up and the abrasive disc is cutting down. This also causes the sparks and abrasive residue to be directed down at the bench top and not into your face and eyes.
You only get one set of eyes, take care of them. The #409 discs can shatter if they are jammed or over stressed in use. The fragments are small, light, and not too dangerous but you do need to use some eye protection here.
Start the drill motor at full speed and lock it on run. Start the Dremel tool at full speed and hold it down firmly against the bench top with your right hand. Hold the drill motor down with the left hand. Make sure the shaft being cut and the Dremel tool shaft are parallel.
Slowly slide the Dremel tool towards the shaft and maintain very light contact as the sparks start being seen. There will be little or no pressure needed or to be felt at the point of cut, use jjust enough to produce a steady stream of sparks. If you don't see sparks it it not cutting well. It will take about 15 seconds to complete the cut and the small end will simply fall away.
In the fourth photo I stopped the cut when it was about half way through the shaft. As you can see the kerf of the cut is narrow and there is no evidence of heating or discoloration. That is the way it should always be with abrasive cutting of hardened tool steel like this.
I finished the cut. If I was going to use the shaft with a tip off prop saver I would use the side of the abrasive disc near the edge to grind a rounded or chamfered end on the shaft so that there was a smooth rounded surface on the end of the shaft. That was not needed for this shaft.
In the fifth photo the shaft has been repositioned and the location for cutting the snap ring groove is marked. The cut will be made the same way as the cutoff was, it will only take two or three seconds to cut the groove to depth. Bring the cutting disc in once square to shaft, touch the shaft lightly for a few seconds and it will produce a nice square circlip groove on the shaft.
Slide the circlip over the end of the shaft and make sure it slips into the groove and cannot be moved by applying pressure to it. The circlips can be deformed in removal, using a new one is a good idea. I have carefully straightened them out and used them again though. If they appear to be sprung open too much, you can gently close them a little with a small pliers.
In the sixth photo the circlip is in place and the location for the grub screw flat has been marked on the shaft.
In the seventh photo I have clamped the shaft in a small vise,axle shaft, a locking pliers or small clamp can to used to immobilize it well to grind the flat. The abrasive disc will be brought into light contact with the shaft and moved up and down the shaft a few times to cut the flat. I move it the distance of the blue marking and the point is to just produce a narrow flat for the grub screw to bear on.
In the eighth photo the flat is cut and the shaft is finished and ready to use.
In the last photo the shaft was slid into the bearings and the motor housing slid down the shaft to the position where it wanted to be to centralize itself over the magnets.
Sometimes with snug fitting shafts it is necessary to find the centralized location (maybe even using another looser fitting shaft to do it) and measure the width of gap between the magnet housing and the mount when the magnets are centralized. The gap can be measured with feeler gauges or something like that.
As you can see looking at the grub screw hole, the flat is visible and everything is ready to go back together. Make sure that the circlip is up against the bearing race and the thrust washer (if there was one) is in place beneath it.
Check the gap between the magnet housing and motor base to make sure the magnets are centralized, and put blue Loctite on the grub screw and put it in place. This motor has a second grub screw also, I did not cut a flat for that screw but I also put it back with Loctite on it.

If you buy or have shafts for other motors you can often use the circlip groove and simply cut them to the needed length, ignoring any other grooves or flats that are not needed or used.
Jack